'Bumping' A Small Paper Shredder's Cutter Bars.A Grubby Old Electric Space Heater With A Noisy Fa.It's a heap of work, but then it's not as though my Day Timer is loaded with other commitments. Dismantle the machine for cosmetic restoration.Fully reassemble the machine, and prove out all of its functionality/adjustability.I go, and risk wasting all that work and material. blade to mitre gauge slot parallelism impossible toĪchieve - so I can't just set off to paint the stand and the chassis as I could still run into a defect that renders the machine This business of machine restoration is more complicated, and fraught with peril, than it I completed reassembly of the arbor, and I appear to have a defect-free arbor assembly now. I sharpened a lathe cutter and turned down the face of the flange good outcome - zero (or near zero) axial run-out. I rechecked the flange's axial run-out, and it was 0.001" better than before, but still unacceptable. The rip fence just slides off the ends of its rails when it's unclamped. First, though, I have to remove the rip fence, its rails and the table extension to lighten the load. Once I have the elevation screw out, it should be possible to remove the elevation pivot pin, and then remove the whole arbor assembly. I'm going to have to get the saw off its stand so I can turn it upside down, and see how the elevation screw really does come out.
I saw an e-clip on the elevation screw that looked like it might be key to removing the elevation screw, but removing that e-clip got me nowhere - the screw still would not back off and come out.
The elevation screw must be removed in order to be able to remove the arbor assembly. Remove a 15/16" A/F hex nut (RH thread), a flange washer and then the blade.
There's a crack in the edge opposite from the one you can see, and the whole thing is pretty badly distorted. It was a fine item in its day, but it's in rough shape now.